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You see them everywhere - on garden walls, garages, and the sides of millions of UK homes. From smooth, dense engineering bricks to rough, textured facing bricks, they were built for durability, not necessarily for modern aesthetics. Naturally, many homeowners want to paint over them to hide the dated colour and modernise their property.

But brickwork has a nasty habit: It can reject paint. Whether the surface is hard and glassy or soft and dusty, if you treat it like a standard wall, your paint will likely bubble and peel within a year. To paint exterior brick successfully, you have to understand the unique, often difficult nature of the clay surface.

1. Identification: The Water Test

Before you start, you need to know what kind of beast you are dealing with. Bricks generally fall into two categories: Thirsty (Porous) or Glassy (Dense).

  • The Soft Red: Standard facing bricks are usually porous. They feel rough and sandy.

  • The Smooth Blue/Red: Engineering or "facing" bricks are often fired at high temperatures. They feel smooth, waxy, or almost shiny.

The Test: Splash a handful of water onto the wall.

  • If the water disappears into the brick instantly and turns it dark, you have High Suction.

  • If the water beads up and runs down the face, you have Low Suction.

  • Note: Many walls are a mix of both, especially if repairs have been made over the years.

2. The Problem: Suction Variation

Painting brickwork is difficult because you are often trying to paint a surface that behaves inconsistently.

  • High Suction (The Thirsty Brick): If you roll masonry paint directly onto a soft brick, the clay sucks the water out of the paint instantly. This is called "flashing." The paint dries too fast, cracks, and fails to bond.

  • Low Suction (The Glassy Brick): If you paint a dense engineering brick, the paint sits on top like a sticker on a window pane. It has no "roots." The first frost will pop the paint off.

  • The Disaster: When a wall has patches of both, the paint dries at different speeds, creating surface tension that snaps the bond. The result? Flaking paint within 12 months.

3. Preparation: Breaking the Skin

You cannot simply paint over a smooth or dirty brick. You must mechanically prepare it.

  • Wire Brush / Sanding: If the bricks are smooth or shiny, you must abrade the surface. Use a stiff wire brush or 80-grit sandpaper block. You are trying to scratch the "glaze" to give the paint a physical key to grip onto.

  • Cleaning: Bricks are naturally dusty. Even if they aren't shiny, they are likely covered in loose sand, moss, or old pollution. Wash the dust off and let them dry completely. Painting over dust is the #1 cause of failure.

4. The Primer Strategy: Stabilise, Don't Just Paint

Do not use a thick, creamy "One Coat" masonry paint as your first layer. It will struggle to stick to dense spots and will dry too fast on porous spots. You need a Stabilising Primer that acts as the bridge.

  • The Product: Use a high-quality, penetrating Masonry Stabilising Solution.

  • The Action: Scrub this primer into the brickwork.

  • The Result:

    • On Porous bricks, it seals the surface, satisfying the thirst of the clay so your topcoat flows evenly.

    • On Dense bricks, it acts as a bonding agent, adhering to the scratches you made during preparation.

    • On Chalky surfaces, it glues the loose dust together to create a solid base.

5. A Warning on Spalling (The Frost Risk)

Brickwork is designed to absorb and release moisture. It needs to breathe. If you seal a damp brick with a cheap, rubberised, non-breathable paint, you create a "plastic bag" effect. Moisture gets trapped behind the paint, freezes in winter, and expands.

  • The Explosion: This expanding ice pushes the face of the brick off. This is called Spalling.

  • The Rule: Always ensure your topcoat is a Microporous (Breathable) Acrylic or Siloxane Masonry Paint. This stops rain getting in but allows the damp to escape as vapour.

Conclusion

Brickwork is a tough surface to decorate, but it isn't impossible. The secret is to equalise the surface before you apply the colour. Whether your bricks are thirsty sponges or glassy blocks, the preparation is the same:

  • Scratch the smooth spots.

  • Prime the porous spots.

  • Keep it breathable.


Painting difficult bricks?

→ Shop our range of Trade Masonry Paints and Surface Primers.

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